How does Rick Owens make the FW16 collection comfy and sophisticated?

For a designer from whom we are used to theatrical flourishes, Rick Owens showed us a more prosaic Winter collection this Thursday.

The iconoclastic Californian designer did not set out to shock this time.

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Photos : Stéphane Fougère pour Purple Magazine

Rick Owens' 2016 Winter Menswear collection will be:

An accessible, easy to wear collection, in a monochromatic palette of blacks and browns, and of Tibetan-orange chocolates.

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Photo : Valerio Mezzanotti pour The New York Times

A 'security blanket for a scary world'?

A collection under the banner of comfort in the XXL suits and pants, and of softness in bulky coats in oversized ultra cocoons in mohair.

Some catwalk models had Papa Lazarou and kabuki style faces.

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Photo : Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho

In the basements of the Palais de Tokyo...

...a soft scene, but "a battalion of boys who swallow tar, with an air of discomfort" – Liberation.

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You may also like the exclusive interview of Rick Owens for High Snobiety àabout his muse Jera Diarc.